Beauty

Silab targets ferritinophagy with Metallomia for menopausal skin

Solveig AndresenNovember 12, 20265 min read1 views

At a glance

  • The French ingredient maker positions its new detoxifying active on iron delivery and UV-driven oxidative stress, backed by volunteer observations at 14 and 28 days.
  • Silab has introduced Metallomia, a patented detoxifying active ingredient designed to restore ferritinophagy in menopausal skin and to limit oxidative stress under UV exposure. The company reports barrier, complexion and pigment-spot improvements in volunteers, and extracts polyuronides from marshmallow root through a traced French supply chain.
An illustrated skin cross-section with mineral particles moving through a gel-like matrix while a band of UV light meets a thin protective surface layer, framed by marshmallow root forms.

Silab has unveiled Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. The French manufacturer says the ingredient targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the process that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet the needs of cells.

The launch follows a modelling study on menopausal skin in which Silab identified a shortfall in this mechanism. According to the company, reduced ferritinophagy during menopause leads to a lack of bioavailable iron, which in turn drives premature skin ageing — a phenomenon Silab calls metallo-ageing. UV radiation is presented as an aggravating factor: it favours the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, which can lead to a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and to significant oxidative stress. On that reading, menopausal skin faces a double burden, receiving too little iron in a controlled way while releasing too much when UV breaks down the complexes.

Metallomia is intended to act on both sides. Silab says the active ingredient relaunches ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, facilitating the provision of iron and restarting the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, it is also designed to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.

Results reported by the manufacturer

Silab states that metallo-ageing is significantly reduced through this targeted mechanism, and sets out volunteer observations in support of the claim. In Caucasian volunteers, skin was reported to be revitalised from 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were reported to be significantly reduced after 28 days. In a further test, Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure; Silab reports that lipid peroxidation was prevented and that the appearance of redness was limited within hours of exposure. These outcomes are presented as the manufacturer's own study findings.

Marshmallow root sourcing and extraction

For Metallomia, Silab turned to the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has implemented a traced supply chain with French partners, and says the supply has been validated against the criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To draw on the mucilage content of the roots, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.

Positioning and formulation

Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended in all care products intended for menopausal skin, at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is available in aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. According to Silab, it complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations covering Europe, the USA, China, Japan and other markets.

Reported by Solveig Andresen, Cosmetic Safety and Packaging Editor.